Crete Kayak Adventure: Matala Full Loop

THE HISTORY OF CRETE

Crete is the largest of the islands of Greece, and is the home of Europe’s earliest known civilization, the enigmatic Minoans. While the first permanent settlements on Crete seem to date to about 8000 years ago, new artifacts found in sea caves along the coast we will kayak indicate that the first mariners may have reached its shores as early as 150,000 years ago, rewriting the history of early seafaring.

THE STONE AGE- 6000-2600 B.C.

Crete’s first inhabitants appear to have been a blend of settlers from Anatolia, Africa, and the coastal regions of the Middle East. Neolithic tools include handaxes, stone drills, and other artifacts. The site of the Minoan-era palace of Knossos and Phaestos are  built over neolithic remains, and at Phaestos, the stone base of a neolithic-era hut can still be seen. 

MEETING THE MINOANS (BRONZE AGE) - 3000-1400 B.C.

From simple beginnings, the arts and crafts began to thrive on Crete. Early dark-fired pottery called "Kamares Ware" after the cave in which it was first found still dazzles modern viewers with its delicacy and strong sense of design. From the beginning, Minoan artists expressed a freedom and liveliness of line that is enchanting. Around 2000, the first so-called palaces rise up, seemingly coordinated, in a number of places on Crete. These structures cover large areas with multi-story buildings enjoying a natural ventilation system and running water - even fountains and flush toilets. Images of beautiful women with complex coiffures and clothing dominate the arts, leading many to believe that the earliest Minoan society was ruled by powerful queens and priestesses rather than a male king. But by the time of the development of writing, the myths tell of powerful kings such as Minos himself and his brother Radamanthys, a renowned seafarer and lawgiver. But despite their power over the Aegean seas, men are not usually depicted in positions of power in Minoan art. A fresco of male tribute-bearers which originally covered hundreds of feet along the walsl at the palace complex of Knossos appears to end in front of a female figure, preserved only by her feet and hem of her dress.

But apparent divisions on the island drove some Minoans to the Greek mainland, where they may have mingled with the local Greeks and become the Myceneans.

The Minoans established towns throughout the Aegean and beyond in what some have termed a "thalassocracy" - domination by seatrade. But in a sudden shift about 1638 BC, everything changed. The island of Thira - now known as Santorini - exploded in a devastating volcanic eruption which sent as tsunami roaring into Crete, less than 90 miles away.  The height of this wave has been estimated as high as 200 feet, and it was accompanied by a volcanic cloud which dimmed the sun enough to affect agriculture around the Mediterranean. About the same time, Knossos was destroyed in an earthquake and fire. Some historians believe there was an opportunistic invasion of Crete by the Mycenaeans shortly after the eruption and tsunami. In any case, there is a shift in language and culture after this time. Though Knossos itself was rebuilt, the other palaces were  not, and Knossos became the undisputed center of Cretan politics during the Mycenaean period. After about 500 years, around the close of the estimated time of the Trojan War, the Mycenaeans  lost power to a new invader, the Dorians, tall blue-eyed Greeks who are the ancestors of the local Sfakians we will meet along our journey.  Some of the changes that come with the Dorians are preserved in the stone steles found at Gortyna which make up the "Gortyna Code", a collection of laws. Corrections 'penciled in" on these stone tablets show the gradual diminishment of Cretan women's rights of inheritance and other changes.

Crete eventually comes under the control of the Ptolemies, the Greek rulers of Egypt who came to power after the death of Alexander the Great.  Crete at one point belonged to Cleopatra, who is believed to have visited her holding after it was restored to her by Marc Antony. She would not be the first femme fatale to make a visit to the island - Helen of Troy is also rumored to have stopped along the south coast of Crete while traveling with her husband Menelaus.

CHRISTIANITY

Crete is mentioned in the Bible several times, mostly in connection with St. Paul who is said to have been shipwrecked at the Cretan port of Fair Havens on his way back to Rome to face charges.  In any case, the south coast is fond of St. Paul and there are several spots named for him, including  a chapel on the beach at Agios Pavlos which we will visit by kayak.  "Pavlos" is also a very popular name in southern Crete. Slightly later, St. Titus came to the island to preach and there are the remains of an early cathedral at the ancient site of Gortyna. While not part of our usual itinerary, some may find the ruins of this vast Roman-era city worth a visit before or after the trip.

After the departure of the Romans, Crete was made part of the Byzantine Empire. In 824 A.D. an Arab Saracen force invaded the Island, meeting little resistance. They used Crete as a base for attacks on ships and were little more than pirates. For over a century Arabs had control of the Island. The Byzantine rulers did little to help their colony until 961 A.D., when they drove out the Arabs in a huge and bloody battle which decimated the Cretan population and wiped out the occupying Arabs. After the Crusades, the island of Crete fell into Venetian hands. While the native Cretans were second-class citizens, the Venetians were generally more or less benevolent or merely indifferent rulers, and as time went on, Venetians and Cretans intermarried. Some of the foods of Crete and other Greek islands still reflect this Italian influence - which is why a baked spaghetti with pork dish is a specialty at one of the tavernas we'll visit.  

The Venetians maintained control over Crete until 1668, when the Ottoman Empire captured the island. Crete remained under Ottoman control until long after the liberation of the rest of Greece, gaining independence in 1897. It was its own nation for about 15 years, reuniting with Greece in 1912.  

During World War II, Crete was the site of the "Battle of Crete", when Hitler dispatched 17,000 paratroopers to take over the island in a single night. However, over six thousand of them were killed by local Cretans. While the invasion succeeded, the loss of so many elite troops against ill-equipped opponents made Hitler resolve to never use that method of attack again, a decision which may have cost him dearly.

In modern times, Crete enjoys a robust agricultural and shipping economy augmented by a vibrant tourism sector. While it is suffering from the financial crisis throughout Greece,  Crete is still a net contributor to the economy of Greece, sending far more in taxes to the Greek government than they receive back in services - or so our Cretan friends insist. Crete also made good use of EU funds in the early days of Greece joining the Euro union, with the result that many roads and other infrastructure projects were financed with EU money. It also has become a popular destination for many Northern Europeans seeking a holiday home in the sun. Throughout the rest of Greece, Crete is renowned for its excellent food, great climate, and generous hospitality, all of which we will enjoy on our journey through the land of the mystical Minoans.